Uttarakhand a divine journey routed by divine intervention

- SUDHIR BIRLA

On 18th March 2023, at 7.00 AM, started from Delhi with my friend Gr. Capt Deepak Sharma on his Kia for the hills of Uttarakhand, with a broad plan to visit Mukteshwar, Almora & Kasuani side. The weather was pleasant and being Saturday and early morning, traffic was scanty and the expressways till the foothills provided optimum speed to the Kia with CVT, which moved like a flag bearer of various vehicles on the road. Off course google map and Kia map were helping in smooth navigation of the route, bends, turnings etc, helping us to avoid the misses. But, human error in spotting the right road among them in the same direction resulted in a detour of about 10 kms at a point on highway, which made us navigate more carefully, while gossiping about our lives spend during college days and plans for future drives after superannuating from the services.

Mukteshwar

Reached Mukteshwar at around 4 PM after driving for about 9 hrs. On the Way, screen of the mobile of my friend’s hung and the touch stopped working. At the restaurant where we stopped for lunch, we tried to revive the touch using all possible means but to no avail. We Checked in Maa Gauri Resort at Mukteshwar and took a room with the view of beautiful valley and mountains across. On knowing that the screen of the mobile has stopped working, the lady at the reception asked for the mobile and within no time confidently made it operational. We were kind of in a shock, that in remote small places also the technology is bringing revolution. We used her methodology once again later to revive the touch of the phone. Four kms from the resort is Mukteshwar Dham, about 350 years old temple of Shiva at the hill top. Tranquillity and peace deep in the consciousness is felt when one sits for some time at this holy place and obtains blessings of Shiva. Few minutes walk from the Mukteshwar Temple is “Chauli-ki-Jali”, used for rock climbing and rappelling, with an excellent view of the valleys. The view from the spot is mesmerising and unforgettable as the clouds cover the valley and you feel above the clouds. After feeling the beautiful scenic serenity, the hunger pangs and the taste buds were satiated by the tasteful magi prepared by the street vendor. Reached back the resort and then till 9.30 PM we had a wonderful karaoke musical evening as my friend had brought a karaoke mic along with. Then wonderful daal, roti and paneer ki bhurji made our dinner fulsome. Night sky was beautiful, valley had spots of lights from few houses and resorts. Clouds were low as weather was cold in mid march too and sporadic rain was making it cooler. Fortunately warm wear and blankets came handy to keep the chill away. After taking a cup of tea and stuffed aloo parontha, we started our onward journey towards Kasar Devi on 19th March 2023.

Kasar Devi

Kasar Devi is a serene Himalayan hamlet perched above Almora in Uttarakhand, India, known for its breathtaking views of the snow-clad peaks and tranquil pine forests. At its heart lies the ancient Kasar Devi Temple, a place of deep spiritual energy, believed to align with powerful geomagnetic fields similar to Stonehenge and Machu Picchu. This mystical aura has drawn sages, seekers, and thinkers for centuries. Among its most revered visitors was Swami Vivekananda, who meditated here in the late 19th century. He found profound peace and inspiration in Kasar Devi’s silence, calling it a place of deep spiritual vibration. Devi’s Temple and Shiva’s Temple were providing fullest tranquillity in the pristine environment. After meditating in the cave at the hilltop under the divine lap of Kasar Devi and seeking her blessings, we were pondering where to go next as we had ample time for the day.

Jageshwar Dham and Dandeshwar Temples

Suddenly we saw Panditji of the temple is walking down the stairs. He guided us to visit Jageshwar Dham which is about 36 kms from Kasar Devi Temple. We started for Jageshwar Dham, without being aware of its importance. The route was amazing with beautiful smooth serpentine roads carved between mountains and some small streams whistling serene music. Suddenly we saw ASI preserved group of about 108 temples. We thought them to be Jageshwar Dham. However, when we walked towards the temple complex, we found them to be part of Dandeshwar Temple Complex. Dandeshwar Temple, nestled in the serene forests near Jageshwar in Uttarakhand’s Almora district, is a revered shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. Believed to be one of the earliest and most powerful manifestations of Shiva in the region, it marks the beginning of the sacred Jageshwar temple complex. Set against the backdrop of towering deodar trees and flowing mountain streams, the temple’s ancient stone architecture exudes a quiet strength and timeless beauty. Dandeshwar holds deep spiritual significance, drawing devotees and seekers into its tranquil, mystical aura. After paying Obeisance to Lord Shiva and taking few breath taking memories, the divine guiding force took us to Janeshwar Temples. We had Darshan of Lord Shiva at Mahamrityunjaya temple and then Janeshwar Temple. After taking a Parikrama of the Shiva Swaroop temples when we read the board at the entrance we were completely surprised. It is one of the twelve Jytorlingas. By the grace of Lord Shiva, it was our fortune that we could get his umpteen blessings as he guided our way to the Temple Complex, though it was not in our itinerary. It would be pertinent to sketch a landscape of Janeshwar Dham.

In the mist-kissed hills of Almora, where pine forests sway to the rhythm of the wind and time seems to pause in reverence, stands the Janeshwar Temple Complex—a jewel of ancient devotion and divine energy. Rooted in the legacy of the Katyuri dynasty (7th–11th century CE), this sacred site is not only a marvel of Himalayan temple architecture but also holds deep spiritual significance as a Jyotirlinga, one of the radiant embodiments of Lord Shiva’s infinite presence. Crafted in the enduring Nagara style, the temples within the complex carry the essence of a bygone era—each stone echoing chants of sages, each sculpture a silent hymn. Believed to be profoundly revered Jyotirlingas, the Janeshwar Jyotirlinga is a center of immense spiritual power, where devotees believe Lord Shiva revealed himself as a column of pure light, unbound by form or limit. The Katyuri rulers, who were great patrons of art and Shaivism, established this complex not only as a place of worship but also as a cultural and intellectual nucleus of the region. Here, amidst the deodar groves and flowing springs, the sacred and the natural exist in seamless harmony. Pilgrims from far and wide come to offer prayers, seeking blessings, healing, and inner peace. Even today, the Janeshwar Temple is revered during Maha Shivaratri and other festivals, when its age-old bells awaken the hills and the air thrums with devotion. More than a historical relic, the Janeshwar Temple Complex is a living Jyotirlinga, a timeless sanctuary where the veil between the earthly and the divine grows thin. It stands not only as a monument to the past but as a radiant flame of faith—still flickering, still guiding, still sacred. We missed visiting Golu Deveta Temple but hope the calls comes soon and the divine makes our visit possible.

Check in Vedant Hotel and meeting interesting people

On 19th March 2023, when we were travelling from Maa Gauri Resort towards Kasar Devi, on the way, I suddenly saw a Board mentioning Satkhol Ashram. My friend was driving and I told him about the Ashram He said he is a follower, however we were about one KM ahead on the hilly road.On my insistence, he took a U turn and we visited the Ashram. The Gates of Ashram were closed and no one was in sight except some barking of a dog could be heard. After knocking the gate and shouting for someone for quite some time we thought of going back. Just last time we prayed to the Guru that if he has called us here in this rainy weather, he must let us visit his abode too. As our journey was a part of divine plan and so as per his plan, before we could move back, a gate keeper from some other gate came there for some work and he called the guard by his mobile. We thanked the Guru in our hearts and went inside. It was one of the most amazing Ashram. The complete tour was arranged by the person incharge and we had tea there. I cannot explain in words as what was going on and how we could see this pristine place. After staying there for about an hour, we visited Kasar Devi and Janeshwar Sham as mentioned above. It was about 7.30 PM and getting quite dark on the hills and we were taking pics of stars like lights of houses in background, while we had to find some homestay or hotel. Just about 50 meters from the place where we were taking pictures, we saw a newly constructed Hotel Vedant. Vedant in Sanskrit means "conclusion of the Vedas" or "end of knowledge," referring to the Upanishads and the philosophical school that arose from their study, focusing on liberation and ultimate truth. Was our journey on the pious hills of Uttarkhand was for finding ultimate truth? We entered the Hotel and just besides the reception I was looking towards a huge portrait of a Guru (whom I have never met, I shall reveal later as the mystic continued for us) and some Krishna Bhajans were being played. We were discussing the price and location of the room at reception to keep things within our budget. We saw two persons sitting in a corner discussing some calculations on laptop. The person on reception told us that one of them wearing gold chains is the Owner, while another one manages the Hotel (Mr Rajesh) and that we can discuss about discounts with them. We met both of them and during our discussions we came to know that both were disciples of Guru at Satkhol. They not only gave us the front room with the view of the valley, but also gave us good discount on the room. We stayed at Hotel Vedant for two nights, which is quite memorable. After the sumptuous dinner at the restaurant of Vedant Hotel, we went for a long walk and had some good ice cream at a parlour.

Visit to Nanda Devi Temple and Sun Temple

Next day on 20th March 2023, we checked out early and started walked towards Nanda Devi Temple, which is about 2.5 Kms from Hotel Vedanta. The Nanda Devi Temple in Almora, Uttarakhand, is a revered shrine dedicated to Goddess Nanda Devi, the patron goddess of the Kumaon region and considered an incarnation of Parvati. With origins tracing back to the Chand dynasty in the 11th century, the temple holds immense historical and cultural significance. Built in traditional Kumaoni architectural style, it stands within the Almora Fort area and has long been a center for Shakti worship. Deeply rooted in tantric traditions, the temple rituals emphasize the worship of feminine energy, and its annual Nanda Devi fair attracts devotees from across the region. This sacred site reflects the deep intertwining of history, devotion, and mysticism in Kumaoni spiritual life. We came back to our Hotel for lunch after the divine Darshan and some tea and samosa on the way. We also bought lot of local sweets to take along with us back home, which included Singori, Arse, Bal Mithai etc etc. We had lunch at Vedant Hotel and we discussed the places to visit nearby with Mr Rajesh (Manager) as we had free afternoon and nowhere to go. He said there is a Sun temple nearby (around 30 Kms) like Konark in Odisha and we can have a visit there either today or tomorrow morning. Without wasting any time after lunch, we started for the Sun Temple (Nevertheless we requested the Chef to prepare complete local Uttarakhand food for dinner). The route to the Sun Temple was amazing. Cool breeze, mild shower and cloudy sky, light music in the car, glib serpentine road was making the journey worthwhile.

Sun Temple – Temple dedicated to Surya- The Sun God

Nestled in the serene hills of Almora in Uttarakhand, the Sun Temple at Almora, also known as Katarmal Sun Temple, stands as a magnificent testament to the spiritual and architectural legacy of ancient India. Built in the 9th century by the Katyuri king Katarmalla, this temple is dedicated to Surya, the Sun God, and is one of the few sun temples in the country, second in prominence only to the Konark Sun Temple. Surrounded by a cluster of smaller shrines, the main temple exudes a mystical aura, its intricately carved stone walls silently narrating tales of devotion, art, and celestial worship. The temple’s east-facing structure captures the first light of dawn, bathing the sanctum in a golden glow and offering devotees a divine connection to the cosmic energy of the sun. Beyond its historical and architectural grandeur, the Katarmal Sun Temple holds deep spiritual significance—serving as a sacred space where time seems to pause, inviting seekers into a tranquil communion with nature, divinity, and the eternal light. The divine Darshan of Sun God were auspicious. In the temple there was a sole priest along with his nephew, besides us. It appeared that the heavenly grace is amazing as only we two were destined to be here at this moment of time. There were many sculptures of god and goddesses which saw weathering over the years. We spoke to the priest for quite some time, then saw the whole complex and meditated at the complex viewing a beautiful valley. After some time we were feeling hungry and we could locate a small hut like structure with a person making maggi noodles. We both had two plates of the same along with soft drink, while the priest and his nephew also came there for having a bite of maggi. While chit chatting, we came to know that the person preparing maggi was doing LLB and had very good knowledge of Economics. We compensated him well and then tracked down the hill, though we wished we could stay there for more time as the sun had started setting. On the way back, we parked the vehicle at side of a small hill and climbed it as my friend is a good hiker, trekker and an ex-Air Force Group Captain. He helped me in climbing down the hill as well, as it is quite tedious

Sun Temple – Temple dedicated to Surya- The Sun God

The divine Darshan of Sun God were auspicious. In the temple there was a sole priest along with his nephew, besides us. It appeared that the heavenly grace is amazing as only we two were destined to be here at this moment of time. There were many sculptures of god and goddesses, which saw weathering over the years. We spoke to the priest for quite some time, then saw the whole complex and meditated at the complex viewing a beautiful valley. As we were feeling hungry, we could locate a small hut like structure with a person making maggi noodles. We both had two plates of the same along with soft drink, while the priest and his nephew also came there for having a bite of maggi. While chit chatting, we came to know that the person preparing maggi was doing LLB and had very good knowledge of Economics. We compensated him well and then tracked down the hill, though we wished we could stay there for more time as the sun had started setting. On the way back, we parked the vehicle at side of a small hill and climbed it as my friend is a good hiker, trekker and an ex-Air Force Group Captain. He helped me in climbing down the hill as well, as it is quite tedious.

Baijnath and Baghnath Darshan

Next morning (21st March 2023) we thought to travel towards Kasauni (about 55 Kms) along with my 47x Zoom Camera and Tripod stand, which remained out of use since the weather remained cloudy throughout our journey and it rained mildly or heavily all the way. On the way, we stopped at a small hotel cum restaurant with nobody around to have a cup of tea in the heavy rains. After some search, we found that the owner (who worked as Cab driver in Delhi for years) has made a simple homestay with about Rs 700 per night charges for room with a cot and food prepared by his wife. We praised his entrepreneur journey, had tea with him, and stayed there for about half an hour. He guided us to visit Bagheshwar Dham and Baijnath en route to Kasauni. I thought that the divine grace is guiding us through this person who earlier travelled extensively as a cab driver, now driving us. After driving for about two hours in heavy rains, we reached Baijnath Temple Complex. To our amazement in the heavy rains Lord Shiva were giving Darshan to two of us as there was not a single person (including Priest) to be found.

Baijnath, located in the Bageshwar district of Uttarakhand, is a historically and culturally significant town known for its ancient temple complex dedicated to Lord Shiva. Situated on the banks of the Gomti River, Baijnath was once the capital of the Katyuri dynasty, which ruled the Kumaon region between the 7th and 11th centuries. The Baijnath Temple, built around the 12th century, showcases remarkable Nagara-style architecture and is revered for housing a beautiful idol of Parvati, carved in black stone. The site holds immense religious importance as it is believed that Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati were married here. Over the centuries, Baijnath has remained a center of spirituality, heritage, and pilgrimage in the region, attracting devotees, historians, and tourists alike. From Baijnath group of temples, we drove to Baghnath temple in Bageshwar. It is an amazing spiritually alive place , where we had darshan of largest Shivalinga. Lord Shiva was continuously pouring his grace.

Nestled at the sacred confluence of the Saryu and Gomati rivers in the tranquil town of Bageshwar, Uttarakhand, the revered Baghnath Temple stands as a timeless testament to devotion and architectural splendor. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is venerated here in his awe-inspiring manifestation as Baghnath—the Tiger Lord—the temple is steeped in mythological lore and spiritual reverence. It is believed that the divine presence of Shiva once revealed itself at this very site in the form of a tiger, sanctifying the land and imbuing it with celestial grace. Erected in 1602 AD under the patronage of the Chand dynasty ruler Laxmi Chand, the temple showcases the elegance of traditional North Indian stone architecture, adorned with intricate carvings that whisper tales of ancient devotion. A focal point of religious fervor, the temple draws throngs of devotees, particularly during the auspicious occasion of Shivratri and the vibrant Uttarayani Mela, when the air is thick with chants and the spirit of faith permeates every corner.

After eating some snacks and a cup of tea, we thought that we should go back to Almora and have Darshan of Golu Devata (Missed earlier). While returning, on the hilly terrain one old man and one lady along with her small daughter asked for lift till their village. My friend generously gave them lift on the rear seat. On the way, we talked about the local food we ate at the restaurant and places visited etc. while dropping the Old man, he told us that there are limestone and magnesite mines on the way and the road for few miles is not good and wished us to travel safely. He offered us money for his travel (as other jeep drivers could be charging) but with folded hands, we refused to accept. We were touched by his gesture and simplicity. The woman sitting on rear seat along with her daughter was staying at the end of the village about a Km away. She understood that we won’t be taking any money for driving them home. What we could understand from her conversation over her mobile with her daughter in law at home that she wanted to give us something. She requested us for a cup of tea, but since we were running late we politely declined. Then she generously gave us lot of lemons as well as local daal (pulse) despite our resistance. We took a picture with the whole family and touched by their generosity we drove ahead (not posting pic due to privacy). The village of generous people who touched our emotions and consciousness, we earmarked on google map.

On our way back, we halted for some time at magnesite mines, took few pictures and then drove towards Almora. We had google map on and so we were confident of reaching Almora by 7 PM or so and could do Darshan of Golu Devata. However, the map took us from some route from within the city and bypassed the Golu Devata’s Temple. Since it was getting late and we had to look for some accommodation we kept driving with a promise that whenever next time we would visit Almora, may Golu Devata bless us so that we can pay our obeisance. We decided to stay at some Homestay or Hotel away from the city area. My friend kept driving, but to our utter dismay no accommodation was to be found on the route away from the city, except many dhabas and restaurants. Since, my friend is accomplished in driving at night, he said lets drive on this route (towards Nainital) and see where we can find accommodation. After driving for about 2 hrs (65 Kms) we could see few hotels, but on enquiry, we found that many didn’t have any accommodation available or they were charging exorbitant price. Suddenly we saw a temple complex in night and after that there was a Restaurant where people were having dinner and the Board stated it is a Hotel. On enquiry, we found that it had rooms beneath the restaurant along with parking for cars. The room was huge in size with attached bathroom and was offered for reasonable amount within our Budget. We already had taken dinner on the way, so after having a cup of hot tea, we slept.

Darshan at “Neem Karoli Baba’s” Ashram

You remember the portrait of a Guru at Vedant Hotel. I am having goose bumps while writing that the temple complex was “Neem Karoli Baba’s” Ashram, the Guru in Picture at Vedanta Hotel. He was calling us for the divine Darshan. After taking bath we went to the Temple Complex and enjoyed the serene beauty and spiritual ambience of the Ashram. Neem Karoli Baba was a revered Hindu guru and mystic, deeply devoted to Lord Hanuman, whom he considered the embodiment of selfless service, strength, and unwavering devotion. Born in the early 20th century in India, he became known for his teachings centered on love, compassion, and surrender to God. Hanuman Bhakti was at the core of his spiritual path—he often said that by serving others with love, one serves God. His deep connection to Hanuman inspired countless followers, both in India and the West, including Ram Dass and Steve Jobs. Even after his passing in 1973, his teachings and spiritual presence continue to guide devotees around the world. After the divine Darshan on 22nd March 2023, we started our journey back to home, with short halt at my friends relatives in Kathgodam (remember visiting a closed pharma unit at Almora). From Kathgodam, we stopped for lunch at midway and reached Delhi by night. When we started for the journey, my friend told me that he wanted to visit Mukteshwar & Kasar Devi and then to Kasauni. The divine had a plan for us after visiting Mukteshwar and Kasar Devi and his plan was mysterious, it unravelled as the journey progressed. It was a journey of spiritual awakening. It was a journey to know that the plan of divine for us is better than what we van think of. It was the journey which shall remain etched forever. Thanks dear friend for taking me along. I hope we shall continue making short and long trips together in future too. The journey continues …………………….

A Travalogue by Sudhir Birla (Travelled along with Group Captain Deepak Sharma

The Baghnath Temple is not merely a structure of stone and sanctity— it is a living, breathing emblem of the region’s spiritual heritage, echoing the eternal bond between the divine and the devotee.

At Nanda Devi

At Jyotirlinga..

At Kasar Devi

Sumptuous Dinner with Local Flavours

We drove back to Hotel Vedant and thanked Mr Rajesh (Manager and a spiritual person) for making our journey to Sun Temple fruitful. It appeared that the divinity in various forms is guiding us and making our journey completely spiritual. The Chef back at the restaurant prepared a sumptuous dinner with all local flavours. The cuisine comprised of Mandua ki Roti: A staple made from a local grain, a type of ragi, Aloo ke Gutke: A flavorful potato dish, seasoned with local spices and herbs, Bhatt ki Churkani: A Kumaoni dish featuring black soybeans cooked with a rich, spicy gravy, local rice and kheer. We met two civil servants who checked in the same day and were having dinner next to our table. We had a good discussion on our journey and local food and next thing they asked the chef to cook them same meal next morning before checkout. I was staring the lovely portrait of the Guru at reception as the portrait was looking at me while melodious bhajans played in the background. After the dinner, we walked to Patal Devi Mandir about 1.5 Kms from the Hotel as well as a closed phartma factory, which belonged to my friends relatives. On our way back, we found streets empty as people in hilly regions normally sleep early. We were earlier told to be safe as leopard are sometimes visible in this region. So we walked at a pace and returned back to the Hotel.